Bonsai Care Guide

Indoor Bonsai: Need 6-8 hours of bright, indirect light daily. Place near south or east-facing windows for optimal light.

Outdoor Bonsai: Most traditional bonsai species are outdoor trees requiring full or partial sunlight for at least 4-6 hours daily.

Species Variations: Tropical and subtropical species (Ficus, Jade) can live indoors year-round. Temperate species (Maple, Pine, Juniper) need outdoor conditions and winter dormancy.

Seasonal Changes: Rotate bonsai regularly to ensure even growth. Outdoor trees may need protection from intense summer sun or harsh winter winds.

Artificial Lighting: If natural light is insufficient, supplement with full-spectrum grow lights positioned 6-12 inches above the tree.

Signs of Insufficient Light: Elongated internodes, pale leaves, weak growth, leaf drop.

Signs of Too Much Light: Scorched leaf tips, faded foliage, crispy leaves.

Daily Monitoring: Check soil moisture daily by pressing finger into soil. Water when topsoil feels slightly dry but not completely dried out.

Watering Method: Water thoroughly using a watering can with a fine rose (sprinkler head) or by submerging the entire pot in water for 5-10 minutes.

Overhead Watering: Water until excess drains from drainage holes. Wait a few minutes, then water again to ensure complete saturation.

Submersion Method: Place pot in basin of water up to the rim. Remove when bubbles stop rising and soil is saturated.

Water Quality: Rainwater or filtered water is ideal. If using tap water, let it sit overnight to dissipate chlorine.

Seasonal Variations: Water more frequently in summer heat and active growth periods. Reduce watering in winter when trees are dormant.

Time of Day: Morning watering is best, allowing excess moisture to evaporate during the day.

Never: Allow bonsai to sit in standing water or completely dry out. Both extremes can be fatal.

Warning Signs: Wilting leaves indicate underwatering; yellow leaves and root rot suggest overwatering.

Bonsai Soil Components: Well-draining mixes typically include Akadama (Japanese clay), lava rock, and pumice in various ratios.

Why Special Soil: Bonsai soil must drain quickly while retaining adequate moisture and providing aeration to roots.

Basic Mix: 50% Akadama, 25% pumice, 25% lava rock. Adjust ratios based on species and climate.

Alternative Components: Calcined clay, turface, diatomaceous earth, or commercial bonsai soil blends.

Avoid: Regular potting soil retains too much water and can cause root rot.

Repotting Frequency: Young trees every 2-3 years, mature trees every 4-5 years. Fast-growing species may need annual repotting.

Best Time: Early spring before buds swell, when tree is emerging from dormancy. Tropical species can be repotted in summer.

Root Pruning: Remove up to 1/3 of root mass during repotting, cutting back circling roots and maintaining radial root structure.

After Repotting: Place in shade for 2-4 weeks, water carefully, and avoid fertilizing until new growth appears.

Importance: Bonsai soil has minimal nutrients; regular fertilization is essential for health and vigor.

Frequency: Apply balanced bonsai fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during growing season (spring through fall).

Winter Feeding: Reduce feeding in fall, stop during winter dormancy for deciduous trees. Tropical indoor bonsai need year-round feeding at reduced rates.

NPK Ratios: Balanced 10-10-10 for general use. Higher nitrogen (12-6-6) in spring for foliage. Higher phosphorus (6-10-10) in fall for root development.

Organic vs. Synthetic: Organic fertilizers (fish emulsion, seaweed) release slowly and improve soil. Synthetic fertilizers provide immediate nutrients.

Application: Liquid fertilizers are easy to apply; pellet fertilizers release gradually. Follow package instructions and err on the side of less.

After Repotting: Wait 4-6 weeks before resuming fertilization to avoid burning new roots.

Ficus retusa bonsai displaying spectacular aerial roots and fine branching structure achieved through careful pruning

Maintenance Pruning: Regular trimming to maintain shape. Pinch back new growth to encourage ramification (fine branching).

Structural Pruning: Major cuts to establish or change the tree's structure. Best done during dormancy or early spring.

Tools: Sharp bonsai scissors for twigs, concave cutters for branches (create concave cuts that heal flat), wire cutters for wiring.

Technique: Cut just above a bud or node, at a slight angle. Remove crossing branches, branches growing straight up or down, and unwanted growth.

Wound Care: Seal large cuts with cut paste or wound sealant to prevent infection and promote healing.

Defoliation: Advanced technique of removing all leaves to reduce leaf size and encourage fine ramification. Only for healthy, vigorous trees.

Pinching: For conifers and some deciduous trees, pinch new growth with fingers rather than cutting to maintain natural appearance.

Purpose: Wiring allows you to bend and position branches into desired shapes, mimicking natural tree forms.

Wire Types: Aluminum wire (easier to work with, for deciduous trees) or copper wire (stronger, for conifers and thick branches).

Wire Size: Should be 1/3 the thickness of the branch being wired. Use thicker wire for greater holding power.

Technique: Wrap wire at 45-degree angle along branch length, anchoring at trunk or thicker branch. Bend carefully to desired position.

Timing: Wire deciduous trees in spring/summer when branches are flexible. Wire conifers in fall/winter.

Monitoring: Check wired branches every 2-4 weeks. Remove wire before it cuts into bark (wire scars are permanent).

Wire Duration: Leave on for 3-6 months until branch sets in position. May need rewiring for further adjustments.

Guy Wires: Alternative to direct wiring using anchored wires to pull branches into position. Gentler on bark.

Tropical Bonsai: Keep above 60°F (15°C) year-round. Can live indoors permanently.

Temperate Bonsai: Need winter dormancy period with temperatures 30-45°F (-1 to 7°C) for 8-12 weeks.

Winter Protection: Protect roots from deep freezing. Place in unheated garage, cold frame, or bury pot in garden mulch.

Cold Frames: Provide protection from wind and severe cold while maintaining cold temperatures needed for dormancy.

Indoor Overwintering: Generally not recommended for temperate species. They need true dormancy to remain healthy.

Spring Transition: Move outdoor bonsai from winter protection gradually as temperatures warm and buds begin to swell.

Formal Upright (Chokkan): Straight trunk with branches progressively smaller toward apex. Classic, formal style.

Informal Upright (Moyogi): Trunk with gentle curves, branches at outside of curves. Most common and natural-looking style.

Slanting (Shakan): Trunk grows at an angle, suggesting wind-swept appearance.

Cascade (Kengai): Trunk cascades down below pot base, mimicking trees growing down cliffs.

Semi-Cascade (Han-Kengai): Similar to cascade but trunk extends only to pot rim level.

Literati (Bunjingi): Tall, slender trunk with minimal branches, elegant and minimalist.

Forest (Yose-ue): Multiple trees planted together to create miniature forest landscape.

Root-over-Rock (Sekijoju): Roots grow over and around a rock before entering soil.

Leaf Drop: Can indicate stress from underwatering, overwatering, temperature shock, or insufficient light. Assess conditions and adjust.

Yellowing Leaves: Often from overwatering or nutrient deficiency. Check drainage and fertilization schedule.

Pests: Aphids, spider mites, and scale can affect bonsai. Treat with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or systemic insecticides.

Fungal Issues: White powder or black spots indicate fungal disease. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, treat with fungicide.

Wire Scars: Permanent damage from leaving wire too long. Remove wire before it cuts into bark.

Root Rot: From poor drainage or overwatering. Repot immediately into fresh, well-draining soil. Remove affected roots.

Sunburn: Brown, crispy patches from excessive direct sun. Provide afternoon shade in hot climates.