Herb Garden Care Guide

General Rule: Most herbs need 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal growth.

Indoor Placement: South or southwest-facing windows are ideal. Supplement with grow lights if natural light is insufficient.

Outdoor Placement: Full sun locations work best for most herbs. Some afternoon shade is beneficial in very hot climates.

Basil: Thrives in full sun (6-8 hours daily). Insufficient light causes leggy, weak growth.

Lavender: Needs full sun to develop strong fragrance and abundant blooms. Tolerates partial shade but won't bloom as prolifically.

Catnip: Prefers full sun but tolerates partial shade. More shade results in less potent foliage.

Eucalyptus: Requires bright, direct light. Can tolerate some partial sun but grows best in full sun.

Signs of Insufficient Light: Leggy growth, pale leaves, reduced aroma, and poor flavor.

General Principle: Most herbs prefer soil that's moist but not waterlogged. Allow the top inch of soil to dry between waterings.

Mediterranean Herbs (Lavender, Rosemary, Oregano): Drought-tolerant once established. Water when soil is dry 1-2 inches down. Overwatering is the most common cause of death.

Basil: Prefers consistently moist soil but not soggy. Water when top inch feels dry. Wilts dramatically when thirsty but recovers quickly.

Catnip: Moderate water needs. Let soil dry slightly between waterings. More drought-tolerant than basil.

Eucalyptus: Needs regular watering while establishing. Once mature, quite drought-tolerant. Prefers deep, infrequent watering.

Watering Method: Water at the base of plants, not on foliage, to prevent fungal diseases. Water until it drains from bottom holes.

Morning vs. Evening: Morning watering is best, allowing excess moisture to evaporate during the day.

Signs of Overwatering: Yellow leaves, wilting despite moist soil, moldy soil surface, root rot.

Signs of Underwatering: Drooping, crispy leaves, slow growth, browning leaf edges.

Soil Type: Well-draining potting mix is essential. Herbs hate "wet feet."

DIY Herb Mix: 60% quality potting soil + 30% perlite or coarse sand + 10% compost.

For Mediterranean Herbs: Add extra drainage material; they prefer leaner, sandier soil.

pH Level: Most herbs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0-7.0). Lavender tolerates slightly alkaline conditions.

Container Size: Minimum 6-8 inches deep for most herbs. Lavender and eucalyptus need larger pots (12+ inches).

Drainage: Pots must have drainage holes. Use a layer of pebbles at bottom if needed, though proper potting mix is more important.

Material: Terracotta pots are excellent for herbs as they're porous and help prevent overwatering.

Ideal Temperature: 60-70°F (15-21°C) for most herbs, though they tolerate wider ranges.

Basil: Heat-loving; thrives in 70-85°F (21-29°C). Very sensitive to cold; damaged below 50°F (10°C).

Lavender: Hardy perennial, tolerates cold to 20°F (-6°C) once established. Prefers cooler nights.

Catnip: Hardy perennial, tolerates cold well. Can survive temperatures down to -30°F (-34°C) with proper mulching.

Eucalyptus: Varies by species. Many tolerate brief frosts but prefer mild climates. Keep indoor plants above 50°F (10°C).

Humidity: Most herbs prefer moderate humidity (40-50%). Basil appreciates slightly higher humidity.

Air Circulation: Good airflow prevents fungal diseases and promotes strong stem development.

Less is More: Herbs generally don't need heavy fertilization. Over-fertilizing reduces flavor and aroma.

Frequency: Feed every 4-6 weeks during growing season with diluted fertilizer.

Fertilizer Type: Use balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10) at half strength, or fish emulsion for organic option.

For Flowering Herbs (Lavender): Higher phosphorus fertilizer (5-10-5) encourages blooming.

For Leafy Herbs (Basil, Catnip): Slightly higher nitrogen promotes lush foliage growth.

Organic Options: Compost tea, worm castings, or diluted fish emulsion every 2-3 weeks.

Winter Care: Reduce or stop fertilizing when growth slows in fall and winter.

Rosmarinus officinalis 'Huntington Carpet' (Creeping Rosemary) displaying needle-like aromatic leaves in landscape setting

When to Start: Wait until plants are established with several sets of leaves before first harvest.

How Much to Harvest: Never take more than 1/3 of the plant at once. This allows continued healthy growth.

Harvesting Technique: Cut just above a leaf node (where leaves meet stem) to encourage branching.

Best Time of Day: Morning after dew dries but before heat of day. Essential oils are most concentrated then.

Basil: Pinch off top sets of leaves regularly to prevent flowering and encourage bushy growth. Remove flower buds to extend harvest.

Lavender: Harvest flowers just as they open. Cut stems back to first set of leaves below flowers.

Catnip: Cut stems back by half when flowering begins. Can harvest 2-3 times per season.

Eucalyptus: Prune in spring to control size and encourage bushier growth. Can harvest leaves year-round once established.

Drying Herbs: Tie stems in small bundles and hang upside down in warm, dry, dark place for 1-2 weeks.

Starter Kits: Convenient, pre-measured systems with everything needed. Great for beginners. Follow kit-specific instructions.

Seed Starting Basics: Sow seeds in moist seed-starting mix. Keep warm (70-75°F) until germination.

Germination Times: Basil 5-10 days, Catnip 7-10 days, Lavender 14-21 days (needs cold stratification), Eucalyptus 14-21 days.

Thinning Seedlings: Once seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, thin to strongest plants. Space according to mature size.

Transplanting: Move to larger containers when seedlings have 4-6 true leaves and strong root systems.

Hardening Off: Gradually acclimate indoor seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days before transplanting outside.

Powdery Mildew: White powdery coating on leaves. Caused by poor air circulation and high humidity. Improve airflow, reduce humidity, treat with neem oil.

Aphids: Small green or black insects on new growth. Spray with water, use insecticidal soap, or introduce beneficial insects.

Spider Mites: Tiny pests causing stippled, yellowing leaves. Increase humidity, spray with water, use neem oil.

Basil Turning Black: Cold damage or fungal disease. Keep above 50°F, ensure good drainage and air circulation.

Lavender Not Blooming: Insufficient light, over-watering, or too much nitrogen. Increase sun, reduce water, use low-nitrogen fertilizer.

Leggy Growth: Not enough light. Move to brighter location or add grow lights.

Yellowing Lower Leaves: Normal aging or nitrogen deficiency if widespread. Light fertilization usually resolves.